On our way to Lancaster County recently, we stopped to see
our Indiana Amish friends. One of them
said to us, “Have you heard of the yellow buggy Amish?” We were intrigued! So on the way to Pennsylvania, I researched
the topic on my ipad, and we discovered that we’d have to go to Mifflin County
to find them… So, we made a detour.
The Amish settled in Mifflin County in the late 1700s, when
some Lancaster County Amish purchased land in the Kishacoquillas Valley—otherwise
known as the Big Valley (pictured here).
The Big Valley Amish now come in three distinct varieties: Renno (black buggy), Byler (yellow buggy),
and Nebraska (white buggy). Altogether
there are about 30 Amish church districts in the 30-mile-long valley.
Its remote location keeps it off the tourist trail. Indeed—once we got there, the black buggy
Rennos weren’t hard to find—but it took two hours, and three inquiries of
locals, to find the other two groups.
The Renno (black buggy) Amish are similar to the Lancaster
County Amish in how they live, but the other two groups are more conservative. There are about 12 Renno Amish districts in
the Big Valley. Men wear one suspender
and women wear black bonnets. Homes are painted
white and barns are painted red. Indoor
plumbing is permitted, as are things like carpets and curtains. As with the other groups, tractors are used
for belt power only—not for field work, which is done with draft horses (as is
done in Ohio and Indiana).
To learn more about the Byler (yellow buggy) Amish, I turned
to three sources: old favorite wikipedia, John Hostetler's excellent book "Amish Society," and the University of Pennsylvania's “Center for the Book” website
I found out that the Byler Amish and their leader, Samuel B.
King, broke from the main Big Valley Amish group in 1849 over the King group
wanting to be more conservative. They have
only about three church districts in the Big Valley, and none anywhere else. They dress very conservatively even by Amish
standards, although the men are allowed to wear colored shirts, especially
favoring blue. The men’s hair covers their ears. The women wear brown
bonnets. Curtains are allowed in their homes
(lower half of the window), and window blinds are permitted, but not carpets or
rugs. Their buildings are painted. In the photo below, one can see a church “bench wagon”—which is also yellow.
One source said that it’s possible the early buggy tops in
this community were made from a type of yellow oilcloth once used for
raincoats. But now, they’re just “how it’s
done.”
The buggies are two-seaters—they have no regular back seat—but
my Amish friend Ruth has ridden in one, and she says there’s a sort of a “back
seat” that you can climb into over the top of the front seat—but it has no
windows and is very tight! The Byler Amish also allow “spring wagons”—a type of buggy with an open platform in the back, somewhat like a pickup truck. The young unmarried
men have single-seated buggies.
But there’s an even more conservative Amish group in Mifflin
County, and they were even harder to find:
The white buggy Nebraska Amish.
More on them in another post.
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