My Thoughts About One of My Favorite Places--Northeastern Indiana's Amish Country
Wednesday, December 18, 2019
Turkey Feathers
I know an Amish family where the father and sons love to go hunting! They make regular trips out west to hunt elk, but they also hunt other things, including wild turkeys. Their home has a trophy room where there are all kinds of hunting trophies and souvenirs -- I'll have to take a picture next time I'm there.
The one and only time I've tasted elk in my life was at their house, for Old Christmas dinner.
A while back I noticed these sets of turkey feathers laid out to dry in the utility room, with borax sprinkled on the bases of the quills:
Recently the lady of the house was showing me the finished product, hanging on their wall. Notice the three arrowheads attached to the base of the top one.
Tuesday, December 10, 2019
The Italians
I present here a
delightful guest post by my Italian friend Frederico.
The religion
A visit to the Amish county is not just a
discovery, it is above all an opportunity. It offers the opportunity to pause
and slow down the impetuous pace of everyday life. A visit to the Amish requires the time it
takes. It obliges us to administer time according to another meter, according
to a slow and rhythmic flow, like a horse's step.
He has been a follower
of my facebook page and blog, and a while back, he and his wife Stefania came
to America for a visit, and they stopped in Amish Indiana for a day or two on
their way to visit relatives in Iowa.
Earlier this week,
Frederico got around to writing up his visit, and below I present his story (and
pictures) of their experience. It’s a
wonderful look at Amish Indiana from the viewpoint of someone from a very
different culture—Italy.
A
couple of young European tourists visit Amish Indiana
Some time ago I
happened to travel through Amish Indiana with my wife Stefania. It was a
splendid opportunity to discover a different culture.
Susan Mosey was our
personal guide there, and thanks to her help, we could visit some Amish
farms.
As I am an organic
farmer in Italy, I was really curious to know more about ancient agricultural
techniques. The visit was very enjoyable and allowed us to see some interesting farm machinery which was
abandoned 80 years ago in Italy, but can still be very useful today.
When I returned to
Italy I bought this old piece of machinery called a “rompegara.” It looks like a large iron comb and breaks the
surface of the ground when pulled by a horse. Of course I don’t pull it by
horse, but with my small tractor—but it is still a very ecological tool; since
then I have stopped using a plow on the ground of my farm.
This was a nice
consequence of our visit to Amish Indiana, but the most interesting aspect of
it was meeting local people. These
encounters enabled us to understand much of the Amish way of life: devotion and faith in God, love of the family,
respect to old people and to the roles of their society.
The most unusual and
impressive characteristic of Amish culture is the strong bind between man and
horse. Horses are part of the family,
their power is the engine of the society. The horse measures distances and
regulates time. Time is so slow in Amish Indiana! This
is what I miss the most about this place: the slow flow of time.
Since the date of my
visit, one year and half is already gone. Once I returned to Italy I was captured by
the stressful rush of modern life. Sometimes I stop for a few seconds, I look
around the countryside, I smell the scent of grass and woods... and, closing my eyes, I remember my brief
visit to Amish Indiana.
After the above summary,
I wrote a more complete description of the visit. Sorry to English readers… This is written in Italian! I can’t tell the emotions I experienced in
English, it is too difficult. I can
only express them in my language, in the same way I lived them.
This will be a nice
guide for the next Italian traveler. If
you are curious to read it, you will have to find an Italian friend and ask for
a translation! (Sue's note: I included a translation at the end.)
Racconto sull’Amish Indiana da parte di una coppia di giovani turisti
italiani
Può capitare di viaggiare attraverso quella
grande pianura che, allungandosi sotto i grandi laghi, si distende silenziosa e
pacifica per infiniti chilometri nel cuore dell’America.
Lunghe e morbide colline si susseguono come
onde, coperte da boschi, pascoli e campi coltivati, punteggiate da fienili e
grandi fattorie.
E’ il lato più dolce e romantico dell’America,
la dove industrie e metropoli non hanno osato infrangere la spontanea bellezza
della natura.
Ma quando, attraversando questa infinita
campagna, si entra nella contea degli Amish, l’aspetto del paesaggio prende una
nuova forma, le case, i campi, le colline, assumono un aspetto squisitamente
elegante. Non un solo filo d’erba è fuori posto, i prati che costeggiano la
strada sono tagliati, i giardini sono adornati da alberi e fiori, attorno alle
bianche fattorie tutto è perfettamente ordinato: le staccionate, gli orti, i
piazzali, anche i cavalli al pascolo sembrano posizionati secondo un preciso
modello di perfezione.
L’armonia tra uomo e natura è la più bella
espressione della cultura Amish e coglie da subito la curiosità del
viaggiatore.
Viaggiatore rallenta! fai attenzione ai Quilt:
i giardini di fiori che disegnano un variegato motivo sulle colline, non
sembrano un mosaico degno di una cattedrale?
Osserva con quanta cura è disposto il bucato
al sole: prima i pantaloni da uomo, poi le camicie, le lunghe vesti femminili,
infine i vestiti da bambino … tutto in scala decrescente di misura e tutto
rigorosamente in sequenza di colore. A cosa tende tanta cura del dettaglio e
tanta dedizione?
Per gli Amish la cura casa e della campagna
sono un impegno esistenziale, contrassegnano attenzione verso la famiglia,
integrità morale e capacità di governare la terra. E’ un modo per mostrare al
Signore la propria riconoscenza per i doni ricevuti ed per confermare il senso
di appartenenza alla comunità.
Qui religione, agricoltura e comunità si fondono
silenziosamente con il paesaggio.
Queste le sensazioni attraversando questo
piccolo angolo di paradiso.
Susan Mosey, appassionata esploratrice del
mondo Amish, è stata la nostra guida attraverso l’Amish Indiana, dove abbiamo
sostato due giorni. La visita è stata un’esperienza indimenticabile, in due
giorni abbiamo scoperto un mondo parallelo, contemporaneo e antico al contempo,
una prosperosa civiltà, dove si conservano usanze e costumi di un tempo
lontano.
A cena da Philip and Laura
Il principale motivo della nostra visita era
la ricerca sulle tecniche di agricoltura biologica. Da agronomo desideravo
scoprire come questi agricoltori riuscissero a lavorare grandi estensioni di
terra senza l’ausilio della chimica e dei trattori. Cosi Susan ha organizzato
l’incontro con una giovane famiglia di agricoltori. Philip e Laura, che ci
hanno accolto come amici nella loro casa e ci hanno offerto una cena intima e
confidenziale, una chiacchera dopo l’altra ci hanno resi partecipi della loro
avventura, ci hanno raccontato della loro vita.
Abbiamo parlato di coltivazioni, di scuola, di
viaggi e di famiglia. Questo incontro ci ha permesso di comprendere alcuni
passaggi della cultura Amish. Abbiamo selezionato alcuni aneddoti sul mondo
Amish.
La comunità
Ogni comunità Amish si regola attraverso delle
norme di comportamento, che sono prodotte da un consiglio di comunità. Non è
vero che la comunità rifiuta la tecnologia, ma piuttosto che adotta tutti quei
comportamenti che permettono alla comunità di non disperdersi e di rimanere
integra.
Quindi il consiglio ha la funzione di guidare
l’evoluzione della società, decidendo cosa accettare e cosa rifiutare della
modernità.
Il cavallo e il motore
Il cavallo è un componente fondante della
comunità Amish. Determina le distanze, i ritmi della campagna, il rapporto tra
uomo e natura. La comunità Amish è prima di tutto una comunità di agricoltori
ed il cavallo è un compagno di lavoro e di vita per l’agricoltore, esattamente
come il cane lo è per il pastore.
Il punto fermo nella filosofia Amish non è
quindi il rifiuto del motore, ma la tutela del cavallo. Per questo gli Amish
non possono guidare il trattore o la macchina, perché questi potrebbero
sostituire il cavallo e compromettere uno dei pilastri fondanti della comunità.
I cavalli
Due sono le principali razze impiegate dagli
Amish. Nero, elegante, slanciato e magro, il cavallo inglese ha funzione di
rappresentanza ed è quello deputato alla trazione del calesse.
L’altro, il cavallo belga, robusto, forte,
muscoloso, di colore bruno chiaro, fornisce la forza motrice ai mezzi agricoli.
I cavalli trascorrono una bella esistenza, a loro sono riservati splendidi
pascoli, stalle riservate e ricevono amorevoli cure ed attenzioni.
Il motore?
Sfatiamo un mito. Non è vero che gli Amish
rifiutano il motore. Il motore è ben accetto fintanto che non ruba lavoro al
cavallo. Quindi sono di uso comune motori agevolatori a bordo degli attrezzi
agricoli trainati dai cavalli e sono ben accetti anche i motori da
imbarcazione.
Infatti gli Amish possono tranquillamente
portare una barca! Anzi, sono appassionatissimi navigatori!
La cucina
La cucina Amish è tutta fatta in casa, un
ottimo derivato della tradizione alpina di trecento anni fa. Somiglia molto
alla cucina europea, si basa sull’abbondante uso di verdura, lunga cottura di
carni delicatamente speziate, latte e burro. Abbiamo avuto modo di provarla a
casa di Philip e Laura E l’indomani a casa di Jerry e Wanita, altri amici di
Susan, che ci hanno offerto degli ottimi biscotti fatti in casa.
Gli schermi, i telefonini e i computer
Sono generalmente banditi dalla vita Amish
tutti i device elettronici. Nulla infatti può essere più superfluo e sviante,
soprattutto per i giovani. Niente smart phones quindi.. niente tablet.. una
semplice cabina telefonica di quartiere è più che sufficiente per tutti.
Tuttavia, come per il motore, la comunità
accetta in parte la modernità. Infatti cellulare e computer sono ammessi
fintanto che l’uso è limitato alla sola funzione lavorativa.
La religione
La religione non va messa in discussione. Essa
permea la vita di tutti ed obbliga i membri della comunità ad un vincolo di
fedeltà e sincerità.
La devozione religiosa passa davanti alla
scuola ed al lavoro e rappresenta il massimo fine della vita umana.
Molto della vita Amish rappresenta una scelta
estrema per noi.
Molto facciamo fatica a comprendere, tuttavia
offre degli spunti di riflessione, dei ragionamenti da fare.
Forse c’è qualcosa da imparare da questa
antica comunità isolata, come in una bolla, nel cuore della modernità.
Una visita alla contea Amish non è solo una
scoperta, è soprattutto un’opportunità. Offre l’opportunità di rallentare e
frenare l’impetuoso incedere della quotidianità. Una visita agli Amish richiede
il tempo che chiede. Obbliga ad amministrare il tempo secondo un altro metro,
secondo un fluire lento e ritmato, come a passo di cavallo.
For those without an Italian friend – I used
my friend “google translate”—and I was amazed at the insights that my guests
gained in their short visit here. Here
is the translation—it’s a little choppy, but far better than no translation at
all!
One can happen to travel through that great
plain that, stretching out under the Great Lakes, stretches silent and peaceful
for endless kilometers in the heart of America.
Long and soft hills follow each other like
waves, covered by woods, pastures, and cultivated fields, dotted with barns and
large farms.
It is the sweetest and most romantic part of
America, where industries and metropolises have not dared to disrupt the spontaneous
beauty of nature.
But when, passing through this seemingly endless countryside, you enter Amish country, the appearance of the landscape takes on
a new shape. The houses, the fields, the
hills, take on an exquisitely ordered appearance. Not a single blade of grass is out of place,
the lawns that line the road are cut, the gardens are adorned with trees and
flowers, and around the white farmhouses everything is perfectly ordered: the fences,
the vegetable gardens, the squares, even the horses in the pasture—they seem to
be positioned according to a precise model of perfection.
The harmony between man and nature is the most
beautiful expression of the Amish culture and immediately captures the
curiosity of the traveler. Here religion, agriculture and community blend
silently with the landscape.
These were my impressions while traveling through this little
corner of paradise.
Traveler, slow down! Watch for the quilt
gardens. Don't these variegated designs
of flowers on the hillsides look like mosaics worthy of a cathedral?
Observe how carefully the laundry is hung out in
the sun: First the men's trousers, then the shirts, then the long women's
dresses, and finally the children's clothes... all in a decreasing scale of
measure and all carefully in color sequence. So much attention to detail!
For the Amish the care of the home and countryside
is an existential commitment, marking attention to the family, moral integrity,
and the responsibility to care for the land. It is a way to show God their
gratitude for gifts received and to confirm their sense of belonging to the
community.
Susan Mosey, passionate explorer of the Amish
world, was our guide through Amish Indiana, where we spent two days. The visit
was an unforgettable experience. In two days we discovered a parallel,
contemporary, and ancient world, a prosperous civilization, where customs and culture
of a distant time are preserved.
At
dinner with Philip and Lora
The main reason for our visit was to do research
on organic farming techniques. As an agronomist, I wanted to find out how these
farmers managed to work large tracts of land without the aid of chemicals and
tractors. So Susan organized a meeting with a young family of farmers. Philip and Lora, who welcomed us as friends
in their home and offered us an intimate dinner. An after dinner chat made us participants in
their adventure, as they told us about their lives.
We talked about farming, school, travel,
and family. This meeting allowed us to understand more aspects of the Amish
culture. We have selected some anecdotes about the Amish world.
The
community
Each Amish community is governed by rules of
behavior which are decided at a church council meeting. It is not true that the
community rejects technology, but rather that it adopts only those aspects that allow the community not to disperse but to remain intact. So the council meeting has the function of
guiding the evolution of society, deciding what to accept and what to refuse of
modernity.
The
horse and the engine
The horse is a fundamental component of the Amish
community. It determines the distances, the rhythms of life, the relationship
between man and nature. The Amish community is first and foremost a community
of farmers, and the horse is a work and life companion for the farmer, just as
the dog is for the shepherd.
The staple in the Amish philosophy is
therefore not the refusal of the engine, but the protection of the horse. This
is why the Amish do not drive the tractor or the car, because they could
replace the horse and compromise one of the founding pillars of the community.
Horses
There are two main breeds used by the Amish. Black or brown, elegant, slender, and thin, the
English standardbred horse has a representative function and is the one in
charge of pulling the buggy.
The other most popular breed, the very strong, muscular Belgian
horse, light brown in color, provides the driving force for agricultural
vehicles. The horses have a good life—they are given splendid pastures,
reserved stables, and receive loving care and attention.
The
engine?
Let's debunk a myth. It is not true that the
Amish reject the engine. The engine is welcome as long as it doesn't steal the
horse's job. Therefore, facilitating engines are commonly used on board
agricultural equipment pulled by horses, and boat engines are also welcome.
In fact the Amish can own a boat! Indeed, they
are passionate boaters!
The
kitchen
The Amish kitchen is all home-made, an
excellent derivative of the alpine tradition of three hundred years ago. It is
very similar to European cuisine, based on the abundant use of vegetables, long
cooking of delicately spiced meat, and the use of milk and butter. We were able to
try it at the home of Philip and Laura—and also the next day at the home of
Jerry and Wanita, other friends of Susan, who offered us excellent homemade
cookies.
Screens,
mobile phones, and computers
Electronic devices are generally banned
from Amish life. In fact, nothing can be more superfluous and distracting,
especially for young people. No smart phones then... no tablet... a simple neighborhood phone box is more than
enough for everyone.
However, as with the engine, the community
partly accepts modernity. In fact, mobile phones and computers are allowed as
long as the use is limited solely to the work environment.
The religion
Religion is not questioned. It permeates the
life of all and obliges the members of the community to a bond of fidelity and
sincerity. Religious devotion passes through
school and work and represents the maximum purpose of human life.
Summary
Much of Amish life is an extreme choice for
us. We find it difficult to understand,
yet it offers food for thought. Perhaps
there is something to learn from this old and isolated community, living as if
in a bubble, in the heart of modernity.
Wednesday, December 4, 2019
A New Amish Schoolhouse
In early September I found myself in a new Amish schoolhouse in the area. I had an hour to kill while my Amish companion talked to the builders about a water system, so I wandered around and took some photos.
It was a rare opportunity to be in a brand-new schoolhouse—one
of over 100 Amish schoolhouses which can be seen in the Lagrange-Elkhart-Noble
county area. (I have written about Amish
schools a number of times, starting with this post.)
Inside, I found this wall display, below. It’s a good indication of the typical first names
of the next generation of Amish kids.
Since last names are so few and repeated—20% of the local population are
named “Miller” and probably nearly as many are named “Bontrager” or “Yoder”—parents
sometimes get creative with the first names.
Here is the classroom area. Notice the double set of alphabet posters (in upper case, lower case, and old German script). This is because most schoolhouses have two teachers, and the classroom is divided down the middle by a movable curtain. Each teacher is responsible for four grades. Occasionally there is a smaller special education classroom off to the side.
Light is provided by piped-in gas, as well as the large
number of windows down each side.
Many newer Amish schoolhouses have living quarters for the
teachers. This one was no exception,
with a kitchen which led to a living room, two bedrooms with closets, and a
full bath. (The classroom area had two
more half-bathrooms for the students.)
The kitchen could also be used for refreshments after school programs
and other events.
Something I didn’t expect:
a copier! I asked my companion where
the power came from, and he said it was collected from the solar panels on the
roof. I’d not seen one of these in an
Amish school before.
Outdoors, there was a horse barn, along with a baseball
backstop out back and some playground equipment out front. Most children would either walk to school or
ride a bicycle, but some ride in pony carts or even full-sized horses and
buggies.
Several new Amish schoolhouses are built in this area every year, and this was a good example of what the newest ones look like.
Several new Amish schoolhouses are built in this area every year, and this was a good example of what the newest ones look like.
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